Since finding my sewing juju again, I have a serious case of the wanties. For patterns. I bought a shit-ton of fabric the other day; I’m waiting impatiently for it to arrive. Sadly, and against my better judgment, a lot of what I ordered was for patterns I don’t own yet! I can’t buy Vogue patterns at full price. I just can’t. And I want 6 of them, so I surely am not paying full price for all 6.
Analyzing my Biu Biu purchases has shown me a few things regarding patterns. If you have a large difference between your ribcage measurement and your bust measurement, you may find the following tips helpful:
1. I need serious darting if I want to show off my figure better. Most store bought things I buy are sized up to get around my bust and belly, so they just hang on me, hiding my smallish waist. Check out the Biu Biu blouse’s shaping! All nipped in at the waist, with room where I need it.
2. Princess seams are very flattering.
3. Empire waists can also be figure friendly, as long as the lower part isn’t billowy with loads of gathers or pleats. While pregnancy is beautiful, it is not a look I am going for at this time.
4. I need to start doing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on my patterns. Patterns are cut for a B cup bust. I don’t care if you use American sizing with the +4″-to-your-ribcage measurement or the use-your-actual-ribcage measurement favored by the Brits. Either way, a B isn’t going to cut it. Vogue recommends measuring your chest (above the bust) and then measuring the bust. If there are more than 2″ between these numbers, do a Full Bust Adjustment.
5. Patterns that come with separate front pieces for A, B, C, and D cups are my friend.
6. While plain ol’ t-shirts don’t do me any favors, knits can be wonderful in the right style.
Here are my pattern ideas. I had a very hard time getting the pictures to copy over, so please link if you have interest.
*Vogue 8598. Blouse with princess seams from the shoulder. Shows 5 views (though I can’t figure out how B and C are different) including sleeveless, regular long sleeves, and gathered sleeves. This pattern would require an FBA.
*Vogue 8323. Have you seen K-Line’s version? Lovely! Knit top with princess seams from the shoulder. Shows 3 views including sleeveless with an overlapping neckline, 3/4 sleeves with a cowl, and full sleeves with a deep u-neckline. This pattern may require an FBA, but it is knit, so it may not.
*Vogue 8634. Knit top with empire waist. The lower part of the shirt doesn’t have any gathers. The top features 3 views with varying sleeve lengths, all with a cowl neck and raglan sleeves. May or may not require an FBA.
*Vogue 8649. Knit top with cut-on kimono sleeves and empire waist. This pattern has separate pieces to custom fit A-D cup. The top part of the front has bust gathers; the lower part is smooth. The top has 3 views (B and C are the same but show fabric requirements for color blocking) showing short or 3/4 length sleeves.
*Vogue 8747. Blouse with custom fit for A-D cup. Pattern features princess seams from the armscye. Front panel has sideways bust gathers eminating from the button band. Various collar styles and sleeve lengths are shown in 5 views.
*Vogue 1275. This is a Sandra Betzina Today’s Fit pattern for a knit top with interesting seaming, ruching, bust darts and shaping. Short and long sleeves are shown in 2 views. FBA may or may not be needed.
Look for reviews of other pattern companies in future posts.